Gothic Lolita or LoliGoth is a subcategory of the Lolita fashion, a street fashion among Japanese female teenagers and, to a lesser extent, men and young women.
Lolita fashion emphasizes Victorian-style and Edwardian fashion girl's clothing and often aims to imitate the look of Victorian porcelain dolls. The Rococo period has also been defined as an influence of Gothic lolita. Gothic Lolita applies the aesthetics of Gothic fashion to the childlike, pretty Lolita fashion. LoliGoths name and origin is a combination of Lolita and Gothic fashion.
Gothic Lolita is the best-known of the various "Lolita" looks. Other categories include "Classic Lolita", which is often more mature-looking and contains more muted colours and floral prints and "Sweet Lolita" which is identified by childish pastel colours and cute prints.
The style
Gothic Lolita style is usually a combination of black and white, often black with white lace and typically decorated with ribbons and lace trims. Skirts are knee length and may have a crinoline or petticoat to add volume. As in mainstream Japanese fashion, over-knee socks or stockings are popular. White or black tights are also common. Child-like shoes or boots such as Mary Janes, complete the look. Frilly, ruffled or lace-trimmed Victorian blouses are also popular with Gothic Lolitas and designs are usually modest, sometimes with long lace-capped sleeves and/or high-necked blouses.
Some additions may include mini top hats, parasols, and lace headdresses. Mostly black or white, might consist of a headband with ruffles, ribbons, lace or bows, an alice band with a bow or sometimes even a bonnet. Hair is often curled or a curled wig is worn to complete the porcelain doll look. Blond or black are the most popular hair colours.
Gothic Lolita outfits may be accessorized with other props like handbags and other bags, sometimes in the shape of bats, coffins, and crucifixes, as well as conspicuous pocket books, pocket watches, and hat boxes. Teddy bears and other stuffed animals are also common, and some brands make special "gothic" teddy bears out of black leather or PVC. Also, many Gothic Lolita own Super Dollfies and carry them around.
History
The typical "LoliGoth" style originated sometime around 1998 and became more widely available in various boutiques and some major department store by 2001. The popularity of LoliGoth as a very distinct style and community peaked around 2004 and 2005 in Tokyo, and now it has settled down as one of many "alternative" youth fashions. Its popularity outside Tokyo is still slowly rising or at its peak in many areas, and the related maid cafe phenomenon is still slowly growing.
"Lolita"
Although "Lolita" is a reference to Vladimir Nabokov's famous novel, and Lolita is often worn by teens, followers of the style do not consider it overtly sexual. In fact, in Japan many of them were unaware of the connection to the book until it was introduced to them in the Gothic and Lolita Bible as a suggested read. Instead, adherents present themselves as children or baby dolls and consider it necessary to look "cute," "beautiful," or "elegant" rather than "sexy." Some people object to the style, finding the child-like look on an adult offensive, but lolitas defend their choice of clothing as modest and of finer quality, and therefore much less offensive than some clothes that modern children are able to wear.
Japanese culture places a higher value upon extremely youthful appearance and behaviour than Western, and some adult women buy large amounts of products, such as Hello Kitty goods, that are typically marketed only to children in the West. GothLoli is perhaps a more visible extension of this phenomenon.
Gothic Lolita culture
In Japan it is mass-marketed, though not widely worn, but has visibility particularly in the streets of Tokyo and Osaka, on television, in manga and computer games. The fashion is being picked up worldwide, thanks to the Western publication of Japanese magazine anthology FRUiTS, where the outstanding style actually blends in with the other quirky teen trends in Japan. Most regard Gothic Lolita as a fashion but there are still some who consider themselves "gothic lolita" by definition.
Outside of Japan, the lolita fashion is still a fringe fashion; however, it has slowly begun to spread to other countries. Gothic Lolita, along with cosplay and other Japanese cultural phenomena, can sometimes be seen at concerts and anime conventions throughout Europe, Australia and the United States, although certain individuals truly committed to the fashion will confirm that Gothic Lolita is not a fancy dress costume, rather, a way of life. The style has not yet been mass marketed outside of Japan.
Gothic & Lolita Bible
One magazine in particular, Gothic & Lolita Bible has played an instrumental role in promoting and standardizing the style. The 100+ page magazine includes fashion tips, photos, sewing patterns, catalog descriptions and decorating ideas.
Etiquette and Elitism
As with many youth subcultures, a person usually has to conform to certain rules before they can truly be considered a gothic lolita. The rules and fashion faux pas' differentiate between the Japanese and Western cultures, but the penalty for breaking them can be harsh and excluding in both cultures. In the west, online communities have appeared that exist specifically to point out where people have misunderstood the fashion. The general consensus is that the fashion represents luxury, beauty and time taken over one's appearance, and so when people use lolita as fancy dress, or wear cheap, revealing outfits (one of the main lolita rules is modesty) they often end up being criticised on these communities. Many western 'gothic' fashions have ventured into the gothic lolita look, combining revealing clothes with white lace and ruffled skirts, but these attempts are almost always rejected by those who frequently dress in the fashion. Most will either buy from Japan or make their own clothes, and as a self proclaimed gothic lolita would tell you: "cheap lace and frills does not equal gothic lolita."
More Articles:
The Corset - sexy, sliming, shaping
Gothic Make Up Tips - Foundation
What is Goth?
Gothic Fashion - Is the man skirt making a come back?
Goth up your photos with Photoshop
Gothic Subculture
Gothic Fashion
Gothic Lolita
Interview - Sheri Zombie
